Showing posts with label travel with teenagers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel with teenagers. Show all posts

Friday, July 18, 2014

Seattle and Olympic National Park with Teens


From city-life to Olympic National Park, there's plenty to keep kids of all ages occupied in the far northwest.  This loop can be done in 4 or 5 days with plenty of time to find your own diversions along the way.

Advance Planning

Campsites and hotels need to be booked in advance for Olympic National Park. During peak seasons many non-camping accommodations require two-night-or-more minimum stays.

Take your rain gear!  You may have sunshine, but plenty of storms funnel through.

Pack a cooler. If you are flying into the region, purchase a collapsable cooler and some Ziploc bags for ice along the way.  The food choices are minimal in and near Olympic National Park and it's helpful to have some picnic lunches when hiking.

A small daypack as well is great to have for hikes in Olympic National Park.

Days 1-2 in Seattle

Seattle is very straight-forward to navigate on foot, so no need to get a rental car while you are in the city.  Highlights to visit:
  • Seattle Space Needle:  Go before 9:30 for reduced ticket prices and, more importantly, reduced lines even on a clear day.
  • Pike Place: While locals will stay away when multiple cruise ships are in port, it's still a great place to wander with plenty of places to buy snacks along the way.
  • Underground Seattle officially Bill Speidel's Underground Tour: A colorful, and likely somewhat accurate, tour beneath the streets of Seattle.  Just enough walking to keep kids interested without getting too tired.

Days 3-5 in Olympic National Park

Drive from Seattle to Olympic National Park.  Taking the Bainbridge Island Ferry is the most direct route.  Stop at Sunny Farms in Sequim where there are plenty of healthful snacks, sandwiches, drinks and prepared foods to store in your cooler for the next 3 days.  .

Read about Olympic National Park in advance.  There are many great places to explore and options to camp in and near the park, some moderate-cost options outside of the park and two pricey, though very nice lodges, Lake Crescent Lodge and Lake Quinalt Lodge.  If you want to stay at either lodge, call and book directly as there are fees associated with booking online and you can also reserve a dinner reservation at a table by the window in either lodge.

Here is a sample itinerary for in the park:

  • Drive up to Hurricane Ridge and take a moderate and very rewarding hike up Hurricane Hill.
  • Spend the night in or near the park.
  • On the next full day check out Second Beach if the tide is low, or Rialto Beach.
  • Visit the Hoh Rain Forest and take a ranger tour.
  • Stop at Ruby Beach.
  • Spend the night camping near Ruby Beach or at Lake Quinalt Lodge.
  • In the morning walk the 4 mile loop along Lake Quinalt and through the woods or take a shorter hike to one of the many waterfalls in the area.
You can extend your trip down to the Oregon coast and through Portland, or simply head back to Seattle.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Two Days in Washington DC with Teens

Summer is nearly here and it’s time for a family trip to Washington, D.C. While our nation’s capital, offers much more to visit than our Nation’s Capitol, beginning on the Mall is certainly a fine starting point. As with all my blogs, there is far more to see than can possibly fit into two days, regardless of how fast you walk. So use this itinerary as a guide to build your family’s visit.

Advance Planning
If you can plan in advance, contact your state senator or representative for tickets to the White House (over 6 months in advance), Washington Monument, Federal Bureau of Engraving and/or Capitol. While all except the White House Tour tickets can be acquired once you arrive, it will require both getting up early and waiting in line. Tickets to the Capitol are generally easiest to come by if you are late in the planning process. Below I incorporated a visit to the Capitol on Day 1.

Get tickets to both the Spy Museum and Operation Spy in advance if you are visiting during a peak tourist season and save the wait in line.
View from Walking Tour

RSVP for a Free Walking Tour of DC at http://www.dcbyfoot.com/  

Make dinner reservations in advance.

Get a Circulator Bus map from their web site: http://www.dccirculator.com/ . Not only is it only a $1 to ride, you get a view of the city as you travel!

Book your hotel—there are abundant options in and outside the city. If you can get a good deal in the city, it is very convenient as many of the sites are fabulous at night and it’s nice to be able to stop back at the hotel before dinner or to pick up a raincoat if the weather changes. The Liaison near the Capitol is an excellent boutique hotel, in a terrific location that sometimes has good deals.

Day 1
Breakfast at one of many cafes. West Wing Café on New Jersey NW near the Capitol though chaotic is one of the most reasonably priced places for breakfast, lunch or a coffee.

Start your day at the Air and Space Museum. Definitely take a free, guided tour offered several times during the day. The tour guides are knowledgeable and bring the exhibits to life—even for teens. The flight simulators cost $8 per person and are appealing to anyone who likes simulating barrel rolls—the long lines tend to move fairly quickly.

For lunch head next door to the American Indian Museum. Try to arrive by noon to avoid the crushing crowds. Although the cafeteria options can be overwhelming and aren’t well organized, the quality of the food is outstanding—healthful and tasty.

Close up of Interior of Capitol Dome
Take a slow walk over to the Botanical Garden and then to the Capitol for a tour. If you have extra time, find out where your senator’s office is and stop in.

After your Capitol Tour walk along the north side of the mall. Select any of the Smithsonian museums that appeal to your family’s tastes before heading to dinner.

After dinner head to the meeting point for a tip-based DC by Foot walking tour of the monuments at night. Keep in mind that you end up at the Lincoln Memorial from which you may want to get a cab to return to your hotel, as the two closest metro stops are not all that close.


Day 2
Split your day between the Spy Museum http://www.spymuseum.org/ and the Newseum http://www.newseum.org/ . While both of these museums have substantial admission prices, they are both very well done and are geared for adults and teens.

Newseum
Starting at the Newseum, follow their suggested visitors’ route to seeing the museum. That way you’ll end up at the interactive game floor once you are saturated with news. The Newseum also has a high quality café, so have lunch before walking over to the Spy Museum.

Just past the Spy Museum is a Frozen Yo http://frozenyo.com/ for a post walk snack before beginning your Operation Spy adventure.

If you have extra time before dinner stop by the National Portrait Gallery which is open until 7 pm to see the presidential portraits. Or your teens can hang out in the atrium while you tour the exhibits. If you have made reservations in advance, Jaleo or Rosa Mexicano are both a short walk from the Portrait Gallery.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Sedona to the Grand Canyon to Vegas

There is much to see within several hundred miles of the Grand Canyon. Using the Grand Canyon as your center point, a myriad of trips can be created. As you create the trip that fits your time frame and travel schedule use the following as suggestions to flesh out your travel plans with children and teens.

Advance Planning
  • If you are traveling during the summer or spring break then book your campsites or hotels in advance.
 Sedona

Activities: Bell Rock hike, sustenance at Red Rock Café, Slide Rock State Park, Oak Creek Canyon

Sedona is a great town for hiking and walking—you can be easily rewarded with spectacular views with very little energy. However, the hikes are so beautiful I highly recommend taking a longer walk to appreciate the vistas.

One great hike is up Bell Rock. There is a small parking lot at the trailhead that gets quite full – so head out early or off peak if you can.

Just a short drive from Bell Rock is the Red Rock Café—a great place for a hearty breakfast before your hike or a rejuvenating lunch following.

Take your time driving north from Sedona to the Grand Canyon through Oak Creek Canyon. Not only are there beautiful vistas, but Slide Rock State Park can also be found in the canyon. This is a great spot when the weather is warm to put on your bathing suit and slide down the natural chutes formed by the creek. In the summer months the park gets extremely crowded and there can even be a wait to park. So arrive early to minimize having disgruntled children in your backseat.

Stop at the lookout at the north of Slide Rock State Park for views back down the canyon towards Sedona. This is a must for the driver, as with hairpin turns and a narrow road, the driver will want to stay focused on the road not the vistas while driving.

Grand Canyon
Activities: Ranger Talk, Hike Partway down the South Kaibab Trail, Ride the Shuttle

Both the north rim and the south rim offer fabulous views of the Grand Canyon. While some people prefer one rim over the other, the best choice for your family is likely to be whichever is closer to your route it’s over 200 miles to drive from one rim to the other. The south rim hosts far more visitors as snow closes the north rim for much of the year and the north rim is generally less accessible. If you are visiting the Grand Canyon along with Sedona (to the south) and Vegas (to the West), then you will most likely want to visit the South Rim.

Start with a ranger talk at the visitor center. Check the schedule in advance. For younger children you can pick up a Junior Ranger guide with activities for children to complete as they learn about the canyon.

If you’re feeling fresh and full of energy start with a short hike along the rim and down into the canyon. The South Kaibab trail is somewhat less traveled and has fabulous views into the canyon.

Hike at least part way down into the canyon. Remember: This is a canyon—knees aside, most people will find themselves more tired and moving more slowly on the return trip so plan accordingly. Ensure that you have adequate water for your group—everyone should carry his or her own water, kids too—and a snack to re-energize for the return trip is well advised.

Game suggestion: The observation game. If you need a diversion from “how much farther?” “Look up at the top of the rim, that’s how much farther”, here’s an easy game all ages can enjoy. Whenever you pass a group of hikers, everyone observes how many people there are, their relative ages, what the fellow hikers are wearing, perhaps even snatches of conversation. Then each member of your hiking party can ask an observation question or 2 such as, “What was written on the smallest child’s T shirt?” or “What color was the first hiker’s back pack?” Everyone in the group tries to answer; hopefully the question asker remembers the correct answer to his or her question. Everyone scores a point for each question answered correctly and the asker gets a bonus point for stumping all but one responder.

Back along the canyon rim take a shuttle ride. The shuttles are not only the only way to drive along the rim of the canyon, they are convenient, frequent and driven by helpful and generally talkative drivers.

Hoover Dam
Activities: Take a Dam Tour

Not only is a tour the only way to see the giant turbines in the Hoover Dam, it is a great way to learn about the history of the dam for kids and parents alike. The ticket prices are steep ($30 per person in 2010), but the tour guides are generally very entertaining, the views from the top of the Dam are quite breathtaking when looking down to the Colorado river and the tours are quite educational both in the engineering of the dam and the history of its planning and construction.

Las Vegas
Activities: Walk along the strip, view the hotel extravaganza, ride a double decker bus ($7 for a 24 hour pass)

There is plenty for children and teens to see in Vegas. The fabulous facades at the major hotels are attractions in and of themselves. Three that are worth stopping to view are the Bellagio Fountains, the volcano at the Mirage and the Sirens of Treasure Island at the Treasure Island Hotel. All keep the times of their shows posted and crowds will gather in advance of shows for a front row standing view.
Let your children and teens experiment with their cameras in Vegas—from the juxtaposition of lines and color to the neon lights at night—there is ample material for any photographer to experiment with day and night.

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Ponies on the Beach and More

This itinerary is ideal for families who enjoy camping, but can easily be modified for hotel stays as well. From crowded Rehoboth beach to the quiet beaches of Assateague Island, there is ocean front for everyone.







Advance Planning:
  • If you are not camping, book a hotel within an hours drive of Assateague National Seashore. The Residence Inn in Salisbury, MD is clean, comfortable and less than an hour’s drive to the entrance. Campgrounds are first come, first serve; plan to arrive early.
  • Campground reservations can be made at Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware. If you are not camping, there are many alternatives for lodging in both Rehoboth and Lewes which are on either side of the state park.
Day 1 (as many days as you like!): Assateague National Seashore, MD and Rehoboth, DE
Followed by a drive up route 1 to Cape Henlopen

Arrive (or wake up) in Assateague early to see the wild ponies sleeping on the beach. On your way into the National Seashore stop at the visitor’s center where you can pick up a brochure and trail guides for the 3 nature trails. Or print out the trail guides beforehand http://www.nps.gov/asis/planyourvisit/brochures.htm .
The trails are short and worth walking both for the chance to see the wild ponies as well as for the enjoyment of seeing different ecosystems. Be sure to watch the ponies from a distance—they are wild animals!

After taking a walk or two and driving along the paved roads, park at one of the beach entrances and enjoy the sand and surf.

From Assateague National Seashore, drive north through Ocean City, MD toward Rehoboth. For a lunch stop try McCabe’s Gourmet Market in Bethany, DE which is right on your drive north (although on the left side of the road).

Stop in Rehoboth Beach and head for the boardwalk. There is metered parking along Rehoboth Ave and with a little parking karma you can find a spot. The meters all take credit cards so you won't need to fish for quarters or leave when your change runs out.  Take a walk along the boardwalk, enjoy the people watching, browse in the shops and enjoy candy at Dolle's or an ice cream cone.  While some ice cream stands boast far more flavors, for truly outstanding homemade ice cream try Archie’s which is especially good if you like fresh fruit in homemade vanilla ice cream—perfection!

Day 2: Cape Henlopen State Park, DE
If your family likes ferry rides take the round trip Cape May ferry from Lewes to Cape May, NJ. Children fares are $7 round trip and adult fares are $14 round trip.

But you don’t need to go anywhere to have a great family stay in Cape Henlopen. There are beautiful beaches, kayak rentals, a long pier for fishing and excellent sunset views, a Frolf (Frisbee golf) course, lots of biking trails, a bird nesting area which is roped off, but often staffed by volunteers who will share their binoculars, and much more.


Tips: The main swimming beach rents umbrellas and chairs, so don’t worry if you forgot to pack yours. But do pack your lunch in bring it in from Lewes or Rehoboth as the concession food isn’t too special.

Monday, July 5, 2010

The Outer Banks in Two Days



You could easily spend a week or a month or a lifetime in the Outer Banks of North Carolina, but if you’re driving from Florida to Maine, don’t drive inland—enjoy the Outer Banks!  Here is a two day itinerary, from South to North with one night in Buxton. 

Advance Planning:
  • Book a night in Morehead City, NC.  This is the last town with decent lodging before the ferry landing (a one hour drive). The Hampton Inn is good quality and right on the water.
  • Book ferry reservations on the morning Cedar Island to Ocracoke Ferry http://www.ncdot.org/ferry/
  • Make hotel/motel reservations in Buxton—not a lot to choose from and they fill fast in the summer
  • Pack your beach towels and bathing suits!
Day 1: Ferry to Ocracoke, Ferry to Buxton


The drive from Morehead City to the Cedar Island Ferry landing is about 1 hour without traffic.  Get to the ferry landing at the time requested or you could lose your spot!  The ferry ride itself is about 2 ¼ hours.  There are a couple of seats with tables indoors, but these fill immediately.  So bring books or games that don’t need much space or spend your time on deck looking for fishing boats.

Ocracoke is a tiny, compact town.  Pick up an Ocracoke Island brochure at any North Carolina visitor center (including the one on the island). Stop by the Ocracoke lighthouse.  There is only parking for a few cars, so if it’s busy you’ll need to wait.  If your kids like pirate stories, they abound in this area.  Look for pirate references throughout the islands.

For coffee or cinnamon buns definitely stop by the Ocracoke Coffee Co.  Excellent coffee, tasty snacks and comfy indoor and outdoor seating— what more could a coffee shop offer?  Pick up sandwiches for a beach picnic at the Sweet Tooth and Fig Tree Bakery or Back Porch Lunchbox.

From Ocracoke drive north to the Ferry to Hatteras, stopping along the way for a picnic and a swim.  There are several places to access the beach along route 12, so take a break and enjoy the isolated beaches—few people, lots of sand and surf!  There is also the Pony Pens along the drive where you can stop to see descendents of the horses that once roamed the island.  The ferry to Hatteras does not require a reservation.  It is first come, first serve.

Once in Hatteras you can rent kayaks, head to the beaches or climb the lighthouse.  The lighthouse lines can be long.  If you go first thing in the morning (tomorrow) you are likely to have less of a wait. If your family enjoys maritime history stop by the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum right by the ferry landing.  This very small museum has exhibits on the treacherous waterways along the Outer Banks, shipwrecks and piracy.  It also had an exhibit on German subs in World War 2 and the use of air power to sink battleships.

Day 2: Enjoy the National Seashore, Kitty Hawk, Drive North


Start your day early with a visit to the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse.  You can climb the 248 stairs to the top for an excellent view.  Stop by the visitor’s center where you can view the binders on moving the light house.  Kids and adults will be fascinated by the rail and hydraulic system put in place to move the lighthouse further inland (to protect it from the eroding beach) in 1999.

From the lighthouse continue north on route 12.  Again there are plenty of places to stop and enjoy the beaches.  For a short walk stop at the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge.  You can and should borrow binoculars from the visitor center there.  The bird life is most abundant in the spring and fall migrations and during the cooler morning and evening hours, but you are sure to see egrets even in the middle of the day.

An alternative, or additional, walk takes you to the top of the highest dune east of the Mississippi River in Jockey’s Ridge State Park.  The ever shifting sand dunes are great for kite flying, dune jumping and taking in the view.  There is also a hang gliding school which offers 3 hour lessons in beginning gliding as well as more advanced lessons.


Just a bit further north on Route 12 is the Wright Brothers National Memorial.  Small children will enjoy the Jr. Ranger Program and ALL will enjoy the outstanding talk the rangers give on the first flight.  Both the indoor talk which is given frequently and the twice daily outdoor program are thoroughly worth attending. 

If you have time for one final stop before leaving the Outer Banks, stop at the visitor center in Kitty Hawk to see the Monument to a Century of Flight.  See if your kids can find when Amelia Earhart flew, or the moon landing, or when the U.S. post office established air mail service.

Quite a bit to enjoy in just two days—your family will certainly want to return for a longer visit!

Friday, May 21, 2010

Not to Miss in Southern New Mexico and Arizona

Advance Planning:
  • If you are traveling during the summer then book your campsites or hotels in advance.
  • Book a tour of Carlsbad Caverns if you want a guided tour
  • Book a tour at Kartchner Caverns
Day 1: Carlsbad Caverns
Followed by a 170 mile drive to White Sands

If you are in an RV stay at White’s City campground—a campground straight out of the 1950s, complete with a ‘Million Dollar Museum’ with a speaker blaring a boardwalk caller.
Get to Carlsbad Caverns early.  Start with the self-guided Natural Entrance tour and get the audio guides for kids and adults.  Both are good, although teenagers and even some pre-teens will likely find the kids much too young. Continue with the self-guided Big Room tour and then a guided tour if you made reservations. If you are at Carlsbad for an entire day during the summer, stay for the bat flight program each evening.

Neither my words nor my two dimensional photographs can possibly begin to describe the magnificence of Carlsbad Caverns.  In short—go!  It is spectacular in beauty, in soundlessness, in darkness, in speleothems, in expanse, in nearly every natural measure.  We explored for over 5 hours and heard not one complaint from any one—we were all captivated.

From Carlsbad to White Sands is about a 170 mile drive which is often more pleasant in the cool of the evening.

Day 2: White Sands
Followed by a 280 mile drive to near Kartchner State Park

Like Carlsbad, it is difficult to describe the beauty of White Sands.  The dunes are fabulous for imprinting footprints, fabulous for photographing, fabulous for making sand angels, fabulous for rolling down, crawling up, jumping off, but most especially fabulous for high stepping down, kind of like a run, which we called the moon walk—such a blast!  Here everyone will be a kid!

The 275 square miles of white gypsum sand has engulfed the desert creating the largest gypsum dune field in the world.  The Tularosa basin has the perfect conditions for creating this spectacular wonder—gypsum, dry air and wind.  Gypsum is soluble in water, so most everywhere else in the world it isn’t in crystallized form.  No water drains from the Tularosa basin, so all rain water that falls pools together in lakes and eventually evaporates.  As the water evaporates it leaves behind gypsum crystals which then get broken down by the wind and when broken into small enough particles, are blown into huge dunes across the flatlands.

Day 3: Kartchner Caverns
Stay two nights at or near Kartchner Caverns

If you are camping, Kartchner State is one of our favorite State Parks.  You need to arrive before 6pm, so if you are coming from White Sands, you will likely need alternative accommodations where you can arrive later.

Kartchner Caverns is a living cave as it is still wet and the formations are continuing to grow in the cave and a fabulous contrast to Carlsbad Caverns. The caverns were discovered in 1974, but kept secret until the mid 1980s and then developed as carefully as possible to protect the cave—and it is spectacular.  The cave is warm and humid—70 degrees and 99% humidity! 
And the sights are spectacular!  The soda straws, draperies, stalagmites, stalactites and other formations that are still growing are translucent—amazing to view.  Everything shines with moisture—the cave is subtly lit so visitors can view the formations. 

Outside the cave there is an excellent foothills loop trail for wonderful above ground vistas.  If you have teens, you can take an early morning walk while they are still sleeping!

Day 4: Bisbee, Arizona

Bisbee is a small town near the Mexico border, just under about a one hour drive from Kartchner Caverns.  There you can tour the Queen Mine—an outstanding Darwinian tour of a copper mine.  Our guide was a wizened prospector, or rather miner, who had lots to share about the life of a miner underground.  This isn’t Disneyworld; he didn’t waste time with frivolous admonitions such as ‘keep your hands and feet in the car at all times (not even possible as the ‘car’ was only 8 inches wide) or ‘don’t wander down any dark mine passageways’.

Day 5: Sonora Desert Museum and Saguaro National Park
Total drive about an hour up to Tucson

The Sonora Desert Museum is really more of a natural oasis than a museum.  There are plenty of activities for young children.  In addition there are animals and plants native to the desert in their natural habitat as well as a small ice cream stand which is always a good stop on a hot day!

The Saguaro Desert National Park is split into an East and West (also known as the Tucson Mountain District) portion.  Both are wonderful to visit, but walking in the desert in the heat of the day is draining for anyone— I recommend choosing one to focus on with your kids—whichever has a program on the day you are visiting that more interests your family.

More Time
If you have more time visit Sedona (a longer post on that in the future) and then head up to the Grand Canyon and the Hoover Dam (also topics of future posts).

Friday, April 9, 2010

Two Full Days in Paris

You need more than two days to enjoy the relaxed pace and beauty of this multi-faceted city, so here are two very full days to incorporate into an otherwise hopefully more relaxed schedule. Day 1 takes you wandering outdoors in Paris while Day 2 is focused on two of the many outstanding museums in the city.

Advance Planning:

Book your segway tour in advance. Depending on the time of year you may need to book days to weeks in advance with Fat Tire Bike Tours.


Day 1: Centre Georges Pompidou, Notre Dame including Towers, Walk along the
Seine, Segway Tour, Lights of Paris
  • Morning: Start at the Centre Georges Pompidou.No need to go inside—outside there are many great opportunities for your teenage photographers, shoppers, art lovers, and people watchers.Small trinket shops line one side of the square; there is an outdoor fountain with fabulous water art that is both fun to look at and fun to photograph; the Centre itself is cool to view for its architecture and during nicer weather there are street performers all around the square

    From Georges Pompidou walk to Notre Dame —a 15 minute stroll. The Notre Dame Towers—worth the wait to go up—open at 10 am. There are nearly 400 steps to the top of the south tower though, no elevator. Like most of the main attractions in Paris, the towers are free for those under 18. The views from the top are outstanding and offer a great place to help your family get acquainted with Paris from a bird’s eye view. In addition, coming down the stone spiral staircase is a lot of fun. It is free to go into Notre Dame de Paris—an a good time to remind (or teach) your teens (and yourself) about showing respect inside a religious institution.

    Be sure to walk around Notre Dame to view the architecture all the way around. In addition, behind Notre Dame is a small park with wonderful flower gardens in the spring and summer. There is also a tiny play area, with a spinning disk that seems to have conquered perpetual motion. If there aren’t many small children waiting for a try, it’s worth getting everyone in your family on for a spin—adults included. As an added bonus if you need internet access there is a free wifi spot here.

    From Notre Dame, walk along the right bank of the Seine where you can browse the green book stalls both for books and for prints. Or some can browse the book stalls while others in your family check out the houseboats and barges along the Seine. Then meander towards the Jardin du Luxembourg while scouting out a boulangerie (easy to find), a fromagerie
    (not much harder to find) and an epicerie for bread, cheese and fruit. Then enjoy your picnic in the Jardin du Lxembourg. One warning: pay toilets only here.

    Afternoon: If you have ample time you can walk to the Eiffel Tower where the tours start, but you may need to take a metro to arrive in time. Fat Tire Bike Tours have great guides who really make history interesting and memorable for teens and adults alike. Between riding a segway and hearing the history of Paris in teenage vernacular your family will be entertained.

    Evening: Enjoy the lights of Paris at night: the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, the bridges of the Seine, Notre Dame, the Louvre and all of the buildings along the Seine are spectacularly lit up. The Eiffel Tower shimmers for 10 minutes on the hour every night and offers the potential for a family moment sitting quietly near the Seine enjoying the lights of Paris.

    I am not recommending a specific location for dinner as there are so many and some of the fun is in finding a place that meets the gastronomic requirements of your family. Of course, some places are better than others to look for dinner. The left bank, especially in the Latin Quarter, has many casual options.

    Day 2: Batobus, Musee D’Orsay, Louvre, Latin Quarter

    Morning: Start your day with a leisurely ride along the Seine. The Batobus offers a day ticket with stops at all the major sites long the Seine. You can disembark and reboard throughout the day on a single ticket. If the day is sunny, then not surprisingly it is very warm, hot actually, under the glass bubble on the Batobus.

    Disembark at the Musee d’Orsay. Depending on the art inclinations of your family you can spend an hour or three in this impressionist museum viewing paintings by Cezanne, Gauguin, Manet, Monet, Renoir and on and on. In addition, there are numerous artists who sit and sketch within the light-filled atrium. We enjoyed watching these current artists as much as viewing paintings and sculpture over 100 years old.

    Afternoon: Although the Louvre is a short walk from the Musee d’Orsay, take a break from standing and sit on the Batobus again while cruising along the river. When you’re rested get off at the stop for the Louvre.
    Before going in view the Axe Historique which runs from the horse statue right in front of the Louvre, through the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, through the Jardin des Tuileries, directly across the Place de la Concorde, along the Champs-Elysees, through the Arc de Triomphe and on through Paris.

    If you were to view every painting in the Louvre for only a minute each, you would need 10 weeks to see all of the paintings. So don’t try to see every painting. Don’t even try to see most of the art here. Pick out 7 or 8 art works to view and then go directly to them. Our children most enjoyed The Coronation of Napoleon. It’s a wonderful painting, but in addition to the quality of the painting there is a bench to sit upon while you look at it and it’s quite large so there is a lot to ponder. In addition, the audio guide gives good background on many of the works of art and there are oversized cards available in each room which describe some of the artwork on view. Wandering around the Louvre and possibly getting lost is also a fun pastime in this royal fortress.

    If the afternoon is nice, wander through the Jardin des Tuileries where children float toy boats on the pools and many people sit and enjoy the sun. Cap off your afternoon by relaxing in a café—a great place to share stories on what each of you has seen or just sit quietly together and watch the world pass by. The shops in the Latin Quarter stay open into the evening, so you can continue browsing after the café and before dinner.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Two Days in London with Teenagers

London is an outstanding city for a family. Here is a two day itinerary that can easily be stretched into 3 days if you spend more time walking around.

Hotel: Crowne Plaza Kensington—highly recommend for a family. Two double beds and a sufficiently large room allow a family of 4 to share one room. Also, it is just half a block from the Underground and there are 4 quick casual breakfast spots within 5 blocks.

Day 1: Speaker’s Corner, Double Decker Buses, Tower of London, Millennium Bridge, Globe Theatre and/or Saint Paul’s Cathedral

Plan Ahead:

  • Buy a family ticket for the Tower of London in advance to save time at the Tower.

Start with breakfast outside the hotel. The Patisserie across from the Gloucester Road underground serves full English breakfasts in a casual atmosphere.

Take a double decker bus (or Underground for quicker transport) from Kensington to Marble Arch. Walk into Hyde Park and listen to the myriad of speakers you are likely to see on their upturned crates at Speaker’s Corner.

Continue your journey via double decker bus to the Tower of London. Although it takes much longer to travel on the bus than on the underground, you will get a great view of the heart of London through the West End, Picadilly Circus, by Saint Paul’s cathedral along the Thames to the White Tower. Sit upstairs and if the front seats open up—sit there! The view is not to be missed—my teenagers wanted to keep riding the bus.

At the Tower of London take a tour with a beefeater (officially known as a yeoman warder). Their theatrics and stories will delight everyone. Have lunch at the New Armouries Restaurant in the Tower which has a terrific selection of food that managed to accommodate the varied dietary requests of our entire family from scones and cream to fresh vegetables and hot meals. While at the Tower be sure to see the Queen’s jewels, the exhibits in the white tower, walk along the ramparts and consider seeing the many other exhibits listed in the brochures available upon entry. You are likely to want to spend 3 hours at the Tower including lunch.

If time permits visit Shakespeare’s Globe for a tour. Otherwise, simply enjoy walking along the Thames taking in the bridges from the Tower Bridge to the Millennium Bridge up to Saint Paul’s Cathedral.

For dinner head to the West End where there are plenty of restaurants to choose among.

Day 2: Clock Tower, Westminster Abbey, Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms, Changing of the Guards, London Eye, Walk along Thames, Tea and a show

Plan Ahead:

  • Check the time and day for the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace. Times vary winter to summer and only occurs on alternate days during the winter.
  • Buy tickets for the London Eye on-line to save time and money
  • Make reservations for tea late in the day
  • Get tickets for a show in advance or take your chance at half price tickets once you arrive in London

Take the underground to Westminster for beautiful views of the houses of Parliament—the clock tower which houses Big Ben is particularly striking. From here walk to Westminster Abbey (often a long line) or the Churchill War Rooms (much less crowded). Both are fabulous. The Churchill War Rooms are the actually rooms used by Churchill and his staff during the war to plan their war strategy. It is nearly precisely as it was the day the staff left at the conclusion of World War II and turned off the lights. Large maps with push pins fill the walls, telephones, desks, beds, even the cigarette lighter and saved sugar cubes are all as they were over 50 years ago.

From here walk down to Buckingham Palace. If you arrive late and the crowds have filled in, then head out to the statue of Queen Victoria. From here you can watch the guards march in from 2 sides then walk around to the front of the statue where you can stand on tiptoes to see the proceedings over the heads of the crowd. The police do not want visitors climbing on the statues so take note.

Following the changing of the guards you may have time for a ride on the London Eye before lunch. Even my older teen who thought it was too touristy was pleasantly surprised at the outstanding views and cool photographic angles from the London Eye. The views alone help reinforce the layout of the city and you point out where you have visited and where you’re headed.

Walk along the Thames towards the Golden Jubilee Bridge celebrating the Queen’s 50 year as queen. You can find an EAT along here for lunch, street performers if the weather is nice and people watching in general. Stroll through Gabriel’s Wharf for some artistic shopping. When you’re walked out, head back to the hotel to change for tea.

For a splurge, afternoon tea at fancy hotel in London is gastronomically outstanding as well as offering a relaxing time to talk with your children – ah the pleasures of a family vacation. The Goring Hotel offers fabulous service and an outstanding selection of tea treats all in a beautiful tea room. The price is steep, but in line with prices elsewhere. We actually found it to be less than tea at Fortnum and Mason’s which lacks in the intimate ambiance of the Goring.

Following tea, you can make your way to an evening of theater or enjoy walking along the Thames for the evening.

Optional Day if you have just arrived on a red eye:

Take the Thames River Boat to Greenwich. There are a number of river boats on the Thames. The advantage of the commuter boat is that tickets cost less and if your children are tired and want to nap, there is less intrusive PA talking (of course they do still announce each stop). Taking the boat to Greenwich gives you 45 minutes or so to relax and watch London passing. There are plenty of sites to point out along the way including the houses of Parliament, the London Eye, Shakespeare Globe Theatre, the Tower of London and all of the amazing bridges.

In Greenwich walk around the town then head for the National Maritime Museum (http://www.nmm.ac.uk) —free admission to a wonderful exhibit of maritime history. The model sailing ships and history of telling time at sea kept my sailor teenager enthralled and the state of the art ship’s bridge simulator entertained my active teen.

From the National Maritime Museum walk up the hill to the Royal Observatory, http://www.nmm.ac.uk/places/royal-observatory/, home of Greenwich Mean Time and the Prime Meridian.

If you’re tired and the weather cooperates, relax in the park on your way back to the Thames. There are plenty of places to find a good lunch in town. Then you can return via the river boat or walk under the Thames and take the DLR back to London.

Have ideas for London you would like to share? Comment on this post!